sidbury to woodbury castle

east devon way

sunDAY, 4TH june 2023

Start location: Sidbury (SY139919)

End point: Woodbury Castle (SY032872)

Map: Explorer 115

The weather forecast for the entire week looks fantastic. Today should be sunny and warm all day long.

Although I will only get glimpses of the sea today I’ll include the tide times for Lyme Regis.

Lyme Regis high tide 07:30

Lyme Regis low tide 12:56

I start the day at the car park behind Sidbury Village Hall and I head into the village, passing St Giles Church and the Red Lion pub.

sidbury

st giles

the red lion

Further on just after a stone wall I turn right along a footpath signed to White Cross.

footpath to white cross

On my right I first pass Court House with its stone mullioned windows, then the stone pillars and black-and-white gabled gatehouse to Sidbury Manor. I walk straight on, with some thatched white cottages away to my left, and soon reach a field gate. I go through the gate and follow the hedge on my right.

At the far corner of the field I follow the footpath sign to the right, pausing for a moment to look behind me at the pine-covered hill behind Sidbury which I walked through a year ago. I go through a metal gate and turn right on to a lane.

This lane becomes a track after it crosses a babbling brook where I keep to the left. I pass the thatched Goosemoor Farm on my right, continue ahead through a gateway on a track hedged on both sides.

I walk along an overgrown path where I come across a stinky gate blocking the path. It won’t open and is leaning at a terrible angle so I’ve got no choice but to shove my bag underneath and scramble over.

stinky gate

At another gate I continue straight on uphill through the centre of a large field. After the next gate I go diagonally left across a field towards the line of tall pine trees at the brow of the hill. I have lovely views over the rolling countryside.

views over countryside

I walk along a track with a wire fence on the right. At the next gate I go straight on, keeping a small copse on my left, then at the end of the copse I continue straight ahead to go through a gate and reach a lane.

I cross over the lane and go left into the Forestry Commission woodland. This is White Cross, with a small car park area. I follow the track for half a mile walking slowly behind a horse and pass Hollow Head Cross where, shortly afterwards, I bear right at a fork.

I go though a gate on to Fire Beacon Hill Local Nature Reserve on Harpford Common.

fire beacon hill

I take the left fork by the interpretation board and continue on the plateau with distant views of the sea.

interpretation board

I start to descend, following the track - which is fairly steep and rocky - down then round to the left.

I continue down the hill and at a Nature Reserve notice board on my left I turn sharp right on a more level path. At the bottom, I turn right on to a lane, and shortly take the footpath on the left down some steep steps through a gate into fields where I come across donkeys.

I walk down a steep field admiring the wildflowers and the views.

I keep the field boundary to my right, aiming towards the gate at the bottom, which leads to the B3176 road.

I cross over into Harpford Wood, owned by Clinton Devon Estates, where I am immediately warned to keep off the log stacks.

KEEP OFF LOG STACKS!

Once in the wood I discover the Victorian old railway bridge which I walk underneath, towards a sandstone gulley with a stream, which runs through the woods.

railway bridge

I pass a brick lined drainage and access tunnel as I follow the path through the woods. I have no idea whet the tunnel is accessing and have no interest in finding out!

drainage tunnel

At the end of the woodland track I exit the woodland and reach a kissing gate and a nettle ridden path which leads me on to Knapps Lane.

knapps lane

I walk slightly downhill and after a few yards turn left towards St Gregory’s Norman Church in Harpford Village and after a few yards turn right keeping the Church on my right. There’s no church service today.

st gregory’s

st gregory’s

no church service

I pass Court Place, a grand white house and turn right, then go through a gate on to the footpath towards the River Otter. There are sand martins flying all around me and I can see them entering their nests on the banks of the river.

river otter

I go over the bridge and straight on, away from the river, across a field.

I pass through a gate at the trees and turn right and then, almost immediately, left up 24 steps and by orchards along a woodland track, up some steps and then take a left then immediately a right turn at a hedgerow.

I walk through the orchards where I’m warned to keep children and pets under control as the trees have been sprayed.

I eventually walk downhill at a field edge to reach a lane at the bottom. I turn left then immediately right along the lane signposted to Southerton.

the road to southerton

At the end of this lane I turn left along the footpath opposite a house named Badgers Hill. I continue up steps and turn right over a stile where the path now has a wire fence on either side. When I reach a wider track, I turn right through woodland and go though a gate to enter Hunger Hill which has conservation grazing.

The landscape has changed dramatically as I am now going over heathland and wide open spaces.

hunger hill

As I approach a close-boarded fence I follow it left to reach a gate and exit the heathland. I go left on to a lane past a cottage called Benchams Cottage.

After 100 yards I turn left along a footpath through a gate on to the Pebblebed Heaths of Clinton Devon Estates, with conservation grazing. I follow the pebbled track with fields on my right leading down to a stream which I cross by a footbridge.

I then continue uphill on the pebble track, though a gate and cattle grid until the track becomes a surfaced roadway and I come across common spotted orchids.

I continue on this roadway through Aylesbeare Common RSPB Nature Reserve where, just before reaching the main A3052 road, there is an information board.

aylesbeare common

I’ve now reached the end of stage 4 of the East Devon Way if you are walking it from east to west.

east devon way

I cross this busy road with fast- moving traffic to reach the car park known as Joney’s Cross diagonally left opposite.

joney’s cross

From the car park I head towards the far right corner and take the path leading to a lane. I cross over the lane and follow the ‘To Public Footpath’ sign and head west, down the track. After 120 yards I turn left down the track south, away from the main road. I follow this wide ‘coach and horses’ track to near Morish Cotley, with farmland in the distance in front of me. There are common spotted orchids on either side of the track.

The path emerges from the woodland on to a lane. I turn right, with a large white thatched house on my left surrounded by flowers, heading downhill.

A woman at the house shouts out to me ‘good morning’ and then changes her mind and shouts ‘or maybe good afternoon’. I’ve no idea which one it is either. It turns out that it is a quarter to one in the afternoon.

At the bottom, at a small red brick barn, I turn left for about 100 yards, past a converted chapel.

red brick barn

converted chapel

I reach Hawkerland cross roads. At the bridge over the stream, I turn right up a public bridleway, then take the right fork along a pebbly track wide enough for a vehicle, with high banks on either side.

hawkerland cross roads

At the next fork I take the left track uphill to enjoy the wide-open space of the common. I follow the wide track for nearly 2 miles with gorse bushes (not in flower for a change) on either side.

There are numerous forks and junctions, but I keep straight ahead, looking out for frequent waymark posts to guide me. Ahead in the distance I eventually see the main road and a wooded hill which is Woodbury Castle. On my left are open vistas of the heathland.

I keep on the track when it eventually veers left, keeping Woodbury Castle ahead of me. As I near the castle, I walk alongside it on my right and look out for a waymarker to turn right into the woodlands. Here I can clearly see the ramparts of the castle, a prehistoric hilltop fort dating back to 500-300BC.

I go immediately left then right into the castle and follow the waymarks which lead me in a horseshoe-shaped curve around the ramparts until a final left turn brings me to the car park.

woodbury castle panorama

I pass an information board and then enter the car park where my lift awaits.

information board

woodbury castle scheduled monument

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • roses

  • forget-me-not

  • green alkanet

  • nigella

  • red valerian

  • hogweed

  • herb robert

  • red campion

  • herb bennett

  • clover

  • cow parsley

  • rape

  • common sorrel

  • foxgloves

  • greater stitchwort

  • heather

  • bluebells

  • goat’s-beard

  • rooks

  • chaffinch

  • pheasants

  • chiffchaffs

  • song thrush

  • wrens

  • buzzard

  • donkeys

  • poppies

  • wisteria

  • mexican fleabane

  • speckled wood butterfly

  • great spotted woodpecker

  • stonechat

  • common spotted orchids

  • common bird’s-foot trefoil

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.2 miles which amounts to 25907 steps. It has taken me four and three quarter hours. The weather has been magnificent and the walking has been lovely. Ten out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

donkeys

logs

st gregory the great

common spotted orchid

poppies

(not) beach collection

tintagel to port isaac

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

Thursday, 11TH MAY 2023

The weather forecast for today isn’t great but I’ve been hampered by poor weather all week and this is the last chance to get in some walking, so I’ll just have to take my chances.

Port Isaac high tide 10:00

Port Isaac low tide 16:15

I’m dropped off on the outskirts of Tintagel and follow a footpath down to the coast path covered in wild flowers, heading for Barras Nose.

barras nose

A coast path sign tells me that Trebarwith Strand is two and a quarter miles away. I’m beginning to doubt the accuracy of these signs.

trebarwith two and a quarter miles

I reach Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head. Blimey! That’s an expensive entrance fee.

I pass the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines and climb back up onto the cliffs where it starts raining.

I head towards St Materiana's Church above Glebe Cliff. Odd name for a church and I don't know why it's called this. The cover of the first edition of possibly my favourite book, A Month in the Country by J L Carr, featured this church even though the book itself was set in Yorkshire.

st materiana

st materiana

glebe cliff

I continue along a track, passing Tintagel Youth Hostel.

tintagel youth hostel

The weather can’t seem to make up its mind and I’m battered by heavy showers followed by sunny spells which results in a lot of rainbows.

It is now a rocky path over Glebe Cliff, around Dunderhole Point, Gull Point, Higher Penhallic Point and Lower Penhallic Point passing quarries on the way.

I climb my way gingerly down the cliff to reach Trebarwith Strand, one of my favourite beaches. The trouble is that I’m close to high tide and the beach has been completely consumed by the sea. The path down is lethal after the rain.

I climb steeply out of Trebarwith Strand, passing The Port William, and I have final views over the strand before heading back along the cliffs.

I now have stonechats for company, clicking away in the shrubs and I can see Port Isaac not that far away in the distance.

view over port isaac

I round Dennis Point and then drop down into the valley behind Backways Cove.

I then head along an easy path above Treligga Cliff and then cross a stone slab bridge above Tregardock Beach.

treligga cliffs

I climb up onto Tregardock Cliff. It’s a stinky, narrow and muddy path, overhung by rusting barbed wire waiting to spike anyone who slips.

I reach Dannonchapel and come across a coast path sign that tells me that Port Isaac is only three and three quarter miles away.

port isaac three and three quarter miles away

It has finally turned into a glorious day and I have lovely views over to Port Isaac and back to Trebarwith.

view over to port isaac

view back to trebarwith

I slip and slide along until the going gets a bit difficult along Jacket's Point. I cross a footbridge above a waterfall and then climb a load of steps before crossing several valleys to reach Barrett's Zawn. It is extremely tough going slipping and sliding on the mud and slippery rocks.

I continue along the top of Bounds Cliff and pass over Pigeon's Cove, St Illickswell Gug and Rams Hole before rounding Tresungers Point.

I drop down to the road at what was once Headlands Hotel but is now derelict. I walk down into Port Gaverne, passing the Port Gaverne Restaurant and Hotel.

port gaverne

I follow the road steeply uphill out of Port Gaverne to reach my destination for the day, the car park above Port Isaac.

welcome to port isaac

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • pheasants

  • wall butterfly

  • small copper butterfly

  • oystercatchers

  • stonechats

  • gorse

  • red campion

  • bladder campion

  • sea thrift

  • foxgloves

  • spring squill

  • ribwort plantain

  • kidney vetch

  • bluebells

  • ox-eye daisy

  • navelwort

  • common sorrel

  • birds-foot trefoil

  • oxslip

  • stitchwort

  • common dog-violet

  • red valerian

  • hawthorn

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 10.7 miles which amounts to 27843 steps. It has taken me five and a quarter hours. The weather was stinky to start with but improved massively. Despite slipping and sliding through mud much of the day, eight out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

st materiana

sea thrift

view to port isaac

beach collection

boscastle to tintagel

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

wednesday, 10TH may 2023

The weather forecast for today looks OK if a little on the cold side and with the possibility of rain.

Boscastle high tide 09:43

Boscastle low tide 15:14

I start the day back in Boscastle at the car park next to the shops and walk down through the village passing the Cobweb Inn and the bridge over the river before heading along the tarmac path next to the harbour.

I pass next to the harbour wall and have some final views of the village before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have some lovely views of the sheltered inlet to the harbour.

I come across a sign telling me that Tintagel is three and a half miles away. I don’t think so. If it is it’s going to be a very short walk!

tintagel three and a half miles

There are plenty of wildflowers around but my camera is playing up today. It’s a new camera to replace my battered old field camera. I thought I’d tested it enough over the last couple of weeks to get used to it but a lot of todays photographs are under exposed.

I pass a white tower on Willapark, built in 1827 as a summer home.

There are the remains of man made rabbit warrens here. I head out along the cliffs passing Grower Rock and the Ladies Window rock arch. I have magnificent views back to where I've come from.

I now pass numerous sea stacks, Short Island, Long Island and the rocks that make up Saddle Rocks.

sea stacks

I revert to my iPhone to see if it’s any good at taking close up photographs of the wildflowers but I don’t particularly like the results.

I come across another signpost telling me that Tintagel is still three and a half miles away!

tintagel still three and a half miles away

I head above Trambley Cove and Trewethet Cove before reaching Rocky Valley. It certainly lives up to its name. I gingerly clamber down one side of the valley, cross a footbridge over the stream in the middle of the valley and then climb steps up the other side. It is a wild and beautiful place but it is infested with the dreaded japanese knotweed.

rocky valley panorama

It has turned into an unexpectedly lovely day and I now have spectacular views over towards Tintagel.

view to tintagel

I head over Benoath Cove and Bossinney Haven which are both closed due to falling rocks.

bossiney haven closed!

I walk inland of a headland before heading off across Smith's Cliff on the seaward side of Camelot Castle Hotel and Tintagel.

Before reaching Barras Nose I pass a fellow coast path walker who’s heading in the opposite direction and is carrying a MASSIVE amount of luggage.

massive amount of luggage

I reach Barras Nose and my walking for the day is almost at a close.

barras nose

I've now reached Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head. It feels wild and remote today but was once a hive of mining, slate quarrying and fishing activity. Beyond Merlin's Cave there is King Arthur Mine, driven into the headland and worked for silver and lead in the 19th century. 

tintagel castle

tintagel castle

I head up towards the castle before passing the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines. I then follow an access road which takes me up to the village of Tintagel. I wander through the village to the car park where my lift awaits.

tintagel

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • sea thrift

  • cowslips

  • bladder campion

  • common dog-violet

  • common sorrel

  • gorse

  • red campion

  • bluebells

  • ribwort plantain

  • navelwort

  • herb robert

  • bugle

  • kidney vetch

  • japanese knotweed

  • celandines

  • rabbits

  • wrens

  • chaffinches

  • chiffchaffs

  • goldfinches

  • wall butterfly

  • stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 6.2 miles (not 3.5 miles) which amounts to 15833 steps. It has taken me three hours. A pleasant short walk in what turned out to be lovely weather. Nine out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

rocky valley

rocky valley

rocky valley

beach collection

crackington haven to boscastle

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 9TH may 2023

Yesterday was a right off as it rained all day long. The forecast for today is pretty ropey and my weather forecast app is showing rain and thunderstorms.

Bude high tide 08:40

Bude low tide 14:59

I head down to the beach at Crackington Haven first thing in the morning. The sea is looking rather angry and it is very misty.

It is now a rollercoaster ride to Boscastle. I climb out of Crackington Haven and head over three footbridges. On the slopes above Crackington Haven I come across lots of rather damp spring wild flowers.

At Carn Draught I zig zag up the steep cliff and then amble along a wriggly path through gorse. This turns out to be completely the wrong way and I briefly confuse myself when I do rejoin the coast path by going in the wrong direction. I quickly correct myself.

I amble along the cliffs, where I should have lovely views back over Crackington Haven but it’s too misty to see much. I walk above Little Strand, Samphire Rock and The Strangles but the mist has become so thick that I can’t see anything.

misty coast

Out of the mist appear some animals which I first think are cows, then sheep but turn out to be goats.

goats in the mist

goats in the mist

I’m not particularly expecting orchids this week but I come across a couple of early purple orchids.

early purple orchid

early purple orchid

I should come across an outcrop of folded rocks around here but I still can’t see anything.

I head up and down High Cliff and the MASSIVE Rusey Cliff but it’s not until I’ve conquered them both that I realize that they were even there due to the mist. I first encountered these two in 2006 when I thought they were staggeringly big and the blood thundered in my head as I tried to climb them. Nowadays I barely notice that they are there!

rusey cliff in the mist

rusey cliff

There is apparently a tricky descent to Rusey Beach but I can’t see a thing and it's probably too dangerous today anyway. I head towards Gull Rock.

The going gets slightly easier and I head along the cliffs passing Saddle Rock, Beeny Sisters and around Fire Beacon Point and pass Seal's Hole before doubling back on myself around a valley at Pentargon, crossing above a waterfall. I still see very little but I think the mist is trying to start to clear.

misty coast

beeny cliff

I climb up a long flight of steps at Hillsborough and pass a rather nice patch of early purple orchids. The mist is definitely clearing and a brief shower passes over me.

hillsborough

I now have views over the higher part of the village of Boscastle.

overlooking boscastle

I head out towards Penally Point and suddenly I can see the harbour at Boscastle.

boscastle harbour

I swing back downhill and walk down a narrow road past a number of cottages and buildings to reach the bridge over the river.

That's my walking done for the day so I head for the car park where my lift awaits. It has been a short walk today and I’ve barely seen anything because of the mist.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • song thrush

  • chiffchaffs

  • red campion

  • common dog-violet

  • sea thrift

  • herb robert

  • bracken

  • foxglove, almost in flower

  • bluebells

  • kidney vetch

  • gorse

  • common sorrel

  • navelwort

  • cowslip

  • bladder campion

  • goats

  • early purple orchids

  • wall butterfly

  • rabbits

  • swallows

  • sand martins

  • oystercatchers

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 8.1 miles which amounts to 21268 steps. It has taken me three and three quarter hours. A short walk today and I barely saw anything because of the mist but it somehow stayed virtually dry. Eight out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

mist

goats in the mist

early purple orchid

beach collection

bude to crackington haven

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SUNDAY, 7TH may 2023

It looks like it might be quite a nice day today with some sun and not much in the way of wind.

Bude high tide 07:20

Bude low tide 13:43

I start the day in stinky Bude in the car park behind Summerleaze Beach. I head out onto the beach and watch the surfers before retracing my steps.

summerleaze beach

summerleaze beach

I head back towards Bude and take a footbridge over the River Neet and then a wooden lockbridge over Bude Canal.

bude canal

I pass Efford Cottage, built in 1820 and head on a path towards the coast.

I pass the eight sided storm tower on Compass Point, built in the 1820s as a coastguard shelter, which is surrounded by scaffolding.

storm tower

I wander along grassy slopes where I pass Efford Beacon trig point, number S5629.

trig point S5629

I now have lovely views back over stinky Bude. 

view over bude

I pass what was once the Elements Cafe Bar, Italian Restaurant and Hotel which is now in a sorry state of disrepair. I then wander through Phillip's Point Nature Reserve and enjoy the spring flowers here.

elements cafe bar

I pass Higher Longbeak and then Lower Longbeak with its funerary round barrow.

I descend towards Widemouth Sand, passing the Bay View Inn. I walk along the beach at Widemouth Bay heading towards Black Rock before leaving the beach and heading back up onto the cliffs.

I head along a rocky track before crossing a stream. I head along the minor road passing what was once the Outdoor Adventure Centre but is now OA Surf Club.

oa surf club

I pass Ocean View, a new development of a 5 bedroomed house with an indoor pool, gym, steam room, sauna and cinema room, all within a two acre plot. That’s not going to be cheap!

ocean view

I climb up onto Penhalt Cliff where I have some lovely views back towards Bude at Penhalt Cliff Poundstock car park.

penhalt cliff poundstock car park

view from the car park

I pass Foxhole Point and then Bridwill Point before climbing steeply down to Millook. I wander down the road and head out onto pebbly Millook Haven Beach.

I climb steeply up the road and then regain the cliffs and have lovely views ahead of me. The wildflowers around here are looking at their very best and the geology is not bad either.

I enter woods at Dizzard Point, which are blissfully peaceful before entering fields and bush covered slopes, passing Chipman Cliff, Stoneivy Rock and the cave at Mot's Hole.

dizzard

Along the way I pass Dizzard Point trig point, number S5612.

I pass some ponies munching on the vegetation and they don’t take any notice of me.

I have magnificent views ahead of me before coming across the deepest valley I think I've ever come across. It doesn't even appear to be marked on my Ordnance Survey map but the National Trust have it down as Lower Tresmorn. There's nothing 'lower' about it. The photograph does it no justice. I clamber slowly down the valley, cross a footbridge and then clamber gingerly up the other side.

At the bottom of the valley I come across a small copper butterfly.

small copper butterfly

The path heads out to Castle Point and passes Little Barton Strand and Great Barton Strand and heads towards Pencannow Point before darting back towards Crackington Haven.

I now have lovely views over Crackington Haven and I head down the slopes to the village, enjoying the flowers next to the path.

I pass the Coombe Barton Inn where a saxophonist is playing and head down to enjoy the beach here as well as the heavily folded rocks. It’s close to low tide so I have to walk a long way down the beach to reach the sea.

crackington haven

crackington haven

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • sea thrift

  • gorse

  • song thrushes

  • skylarks

  • swallows

  • oystercatchers

  • bluebells

  • greater stitchwort

  • bracken

  • herb robert

  • red campion

  • cowslips

  • common dog-violet

  • common sorrel

  • germander speedwell

  • celandines

  • bugle

  • cuckooflower

  • alexanders

  • sand martins

  • bladder campion

  • chiffchaffs

  • chaffinches

  • peacock butterfly

  • blackcaps

  • speckled wood butterfly

  • small copper butterfly

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.2 miles which amounts to 30591 steps. It has taken me five and a quarter hours.

It has been a lovely day today walking in North Cornwall which I haven’t seen for seven years. Ten out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

view from car park

small copper butterfly

crackington haven

crackington haven

beach collection